General Discussion

I ordered a distributor from www.cardone.com. When I installed it the car would not start at all, no spark. So I put my old one back in and the car started right up. I sent the distributor back and got another on. The second one worked fine. My car has not stalled since. It has been about 3 weeks. Thanks for your help.

Rick check the shop manual on how to set the timing.a jumper wire needs to be connected in the ALDL and something with the dic as I recall.

The ALDL is located in the kick panel near the e brake there is a small panel that you pry out to access it.


Ross Longo

no, you will just need to used you prom/ chip that you remaove from your old one.. but do dist first

I can replace the distributor with no problem. Doesn't the (ECM) Engine Control Module need to be programed?

rock auto has the dist for 80.00 .I would also change the ecm it's around the same price.

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http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=841864&p=rock&jsn=396

Ross Longo

I am doing it myself.

Roy, are you doing the work your self? of it you have a mechanic, tell him to call me. now if it just shuts off , no bog, no sputter, it may be distributor related, like a ignition modular. that would do it and you will get no codes.

I do have a service manual. It does not bog down. It just shuts off, like turning the key off.

Now that you got a code, you need to start there. do you have a service manual?
does it stall ( meaning bog out) or just shut down?

I drove the car for a couple days, about 60 miles with no problems. Yesterday it started stalling again. I stalled about 5 times (max 1 mile before stalling again) trying to get home. The last time it would not start at all. I had coasted into a parking lot and had to leave it there. I came back about 2 hours later. It immediately started and I drove home (about 3 miles) with no problem. I got a new code E012 No distributor signal listed as current.

both of those codes are from dead or disconnected battery

Did you try to unscrew the gas tank cap? what you did by cracking the fuel line was to release pressure. get a new fuel filter and cap. let us know...

You most likely freed up some debris near fuel filter.
It would be best to go back and replace filter when you have a chance. The ethanol in the fuel gums things up, filter included, even though there is pressure on both ends, a compromised filter will still come back and get you eventually.
Glad to hear it is running better.
Remember to never purchase gasoline at a station where a tanker is filling up stations tanks, as that can plug more than just filter, as it can effect injectors with the debris it stirs up.
Also if you store car for a time, be sure to add an ethanol treatment additive to help gum build up from the ethanol, or go with ethanol free fuel.

I let the car idle this morning for about an hour and then drove it to work. It ran great no stalls. All I did yesterday was crack the fuel line by the filter.

Yes, 3 times it restarted before the tach went to 0. Someone else suggested the fuel filter. I started to remove the line on the fuel filter right after it stalled and had pressure on the the IN and OUT sides. I did find the schrader valve and will try it there. I assume it will probable have pressure also. I will start looking at all the ground connections in your link. I do have 2 error codes. E052 ECM Memory Reset Indicator, B552 BCM Memory Reset Indicator

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I tested the battery and it is bad. So I replaced the battery. Now the stalling is much worse. But I am able to get it to restart. On the way home from the auto parts store it stalled about 7 times in 3 miles. 3 of those time it restated itself while I was coasting. The other 4 times I coasted to the side of the road. 3 of the times it restarted fairly easily. The last time it took quite a while but finally started. With the old battery it has only happen 3 times in the last 30 miles. With the new battery I almost didn't get home driving 3 miles from the auto parts store.

Rick you said it restarted itself while coasting is that correct? Here is a suggestion. Start the car let it run until it stalls then remove the cap on the schrader valve located on the injector rail drivers side near where the fuel line enters the rail.with a small screwdriver depress the pin and see if you have gas flow,watch your eyes as there should be 45-50 psi pressure at the rail.Another thing would be to clean all the fuses under the ash trey and the ones behind the battery. It sounds to me you have either a bad fuel pump or a loose or corroded connection probably a ground.Here is a link to some of the ground locations you should clean. Have you checked the on board diagnostics for codes?

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http://imgur.com/a/FVUIV


Ross Longo

Try driving with the fuel cap loosened a little. The vent might be blocked and the pump can't pump fuel due to the vacuum in the tank.

At least you can start the car now and it cranks, but the stalling out is another issue.
The stalling out just put a more strain on the battery by cranking it more and being a weak one you now noticed it.

It is either spark or gas issue.
I would try a bottle of dry gas in the tank if by chance you got a bad tank of gas, nothing like passing bad gas!
When was last time fuel filter was replaced?
Although it is a shot in dark, if filter gets plugged enough it can restrict gas flow and cause car to cut out, as that happened to another car of mine in the past. Not sure where fuel filter is on Allante as I have not replaced mine as well, ( I believe it is located drivers side in front of rear wheel, but not exactly sure, vaguely remember seeing it, as it is a metal cylinder with gas line going in and out) , but both my allantes have less than 40K miles, but I should replace them soon now that I am thinking about it.that should be an easy swap out as you do not even need to jack up car.
On some cars you can bypass the filter to see if that is issue. I did that on my old Dodge challenger with a piece of fuel hose and a small plastic tube and a few small hose clamps, and once that was done car no longer stalled out. It is a cheap way to test filter, since this stalls frequently a test as such and you should know real fast..but I,m sure an after market filter would be a cheap enough item to purchase as that is an item that does need to be replaced from time to time anyways.
I never purchase gas at a station where a large tanker truck is filing up gas station tanks as that can stir up the fuel with sediment on stations tank mixed and get into your cars tank and cause all sorts of issues.

I tested the battery and it is bad. So I replaced the battery. Now the stalling is much worse. But I am able to get it to restart. On the way home from the auto parts store it stalled about 7 times in 3 miles. 3 of those time it restated itself while I was coasting. The other 4 times I coasted to the side of the road. 3 of the times it restarted fairly easily. The last time it took quite a while but finally started. With the old battery it has only happen 3 times in the last 30 miles. With the new battery I almost didn't get home driving 3 miles from the auto parts store.

I wonder if a breaker is opening up and by the time you charge the battery for a minute the breaker cools and resets.
Battery getting weak after 5 attempts sounds like a bad battery.